Its only after I got my Snoopy from the petshop, that I learned that there is grooming to be done in the shop. At first I was surprised to learn that but then when I saw a groomed dog came out from the grooming area, I then realised what a different it is for a groomed dog and a ungroomed dog.
A dog after grooming
What do you need most for your dog for grooming?
The followings are the most important things that are needed.
Combs: The most commonly used comb is the ½ Finely spaced teeth and ½ Medium spaced teeth and thus very versatile
Brushes: Most groomers have a collection of Pin brushes and Slicker brushes. Pin brushes have straight metal pins in a cushioned backing. These are used for dogs with thinner furnishings or a first brush-through of the furnishings. Slicker brushes have shorter metal pins that are sometimes bent at the ends. They have more pins and thus give a more thorough brushing. This is especially useful for fuller furnishings.
Nail Clippers: There are a few types of nail clippers. One is a “guillotine” style and another is a scissors type. Get a bottle of Styptic powder for nails which is a good thing to have on hand in case the nail quick is nicked and bleeds.
Scissors: It is best to get a good pair of scissors, as those cheap one get dull very quickly.
Thinning Shears: Thinning shears are used by many to blend between the clippered and scissored areas or the clippered and stripped areas.
Clippers: There are many types, styles and price levels of clippers.. You will want a 10, 30, 40 and maybe a 7F (full tooth) and a 15 size blades. The size of the blade will indicate the closeness of the cut. The higher the number, the closer the cut. The 40 blade is used on the ears. The 7F leaves the coat the longest and is usually used on the body of dogs that have thin coats. The 10 blade is the most commonly used blade on the body. Make sure to use clipper oil on the mechanics of the blades before you use them. Keeping them well oiled will help prevent the blade from getting hot.
Grooming Table: A grooming table, arm and noose are invaluable grooming aids. They help to keep the dog steady and in one place while grooming. The arm attaches to the table and the noose hangs from the arm. The arm should be set at a comfortable height for the dog . The dog’s head is secured through the noose like a collar. These can be purchased through dog grooming supply houses. A home made one will do if you are handy or know anyone that is handy. The most important factors to consider when making your own is to have a non-skid top, sturdiness and for the height of the table to be comfortable for the groomer. The dog needs to be taught to stand up and stand still while he’s being groomed. This requires patience and time. Teaching your dog stand/stay is invaluable. The dog will eventually learn that it is to stand still while being groomed. It makes it faster and less stressful on the dog and the groomer if the dog is standing still. Even if you use a professional groomer, they will be grateful to have a dog that stands still on the table. So all dogs should be taught from a young age to stand still on the table.
What are the causes for coat loss
Excess coat loss has three principal causes:
1. Medical Conditions
2. Genetic/Hereditary factors, and
3. Physical/Chemical damage to the coat itself:
Physical/Chemical Damage...
Without question, physical/chemical damage to the coat shaft is the #1 reason for unnecessary coat loss and thinning from breakage.
Chemicals such as bleaching agents, products with alcohol, laundry detergents and dish washing detergents used as a shampoo are some of the culprits of coat loss, these permanently damage and weaken the coat shaft - making it vulnerable to breakage and splitting.
Blow Dryers - Blow dryers can burn the coat shaft. Even the healthiest coat can become so seriously damaged it can split apart and begin to break off in every increasing amounts. If you must blow dry ONLY USE A FORCED AIR DRYER, they do not have heat elements to burn the coat. Also, be careful not to towel dry excessively.
Excess Combing and Brushing and/or improper or inferior brushes or combs can also cause undue damage - especially if you use the wrong kind of comb or brush for your breed. It is also very important that you never brush a completely dry coat. When the coat is completely wet or completely dry is when it is at its' most venerable stages. A completely wet coat is at its maximum tensile strength and elasticity with aggressive brushing or combing at this stage you can stretch the coat to its' breaking point - kind of like pulling on a rubber band until it snaps. When the coat is completely dry it has little tensile strength and elasticity, therefore at this stage aggressive combing or brushing is like seeing how far you can bend a dried piece of pasta before it snaps - not very far.
Medical Conditions
Coat loss can be brought on by countless medical conditions and factors including:
Drugs, hormonal changes, skin problems, illnesses and diet. Some medical factors include: antibiotics, sedatives, amphetamines, tranquilizers, cortisone, thyroid medications, anti-coagulants, mercurial diuretics, antacids, bismuth compounds. Always ask your Veterinarian about potential side effects with these and any other medications you may give your canine.
Hormonal changes - many bitches have some coat loss "Blowing Coat" during their cycle and/or just before and/or right after and/or during pregnancy.
Skin Problems - Dermatitis, Inflammations, Seborrhea, Scaling or Dandruff, Allergic Reactions, Fungus, Hot Spots etc. can obstruct the coat follicles and cause thinning of the coat and coat loss
Illness and physical traumas - high fever, shock, anemia, thyroid conditions, chronic illness, major surgery, chemotherapy and rapid weight loss can all cause coat loss.
Diet - though less common than most think, coat loss is documented by improper protein intake, iron deficiency, over dosage of vitamin A, dietary changes and lack of essential fatty acids.
Genetic/Hereditary Coat Loss...
Research has shown that this is a relatively small part of the problem. Genetic coat loss can be due to the following hereditary factors which is usually by breed not by breeding:
1. Thickness - Generally, thicker coat shafts are stronger and less likely to break.
2. Color - Straight black and straight red are usually the strongest hair; white coats tend to be thinner at least the coat shaft itself is thinner, there just might be more of it, but they are definitely more delicate and more likely to break or split.
3. Curl/Texture - Curls create points of weakness through the coat shaft; the greater the curl - greaterlikelihood of coat loss from splitting and breakage.
Odor of dogs
There is saying that Apple Cider Venegar can helps to reduce the Odor. I noticed it is true, as after mixing it with water for my dogs, their pees not so smelly as before.
